COSMETIC ADDITIVES

A variety of organic compounds and inorganic compounds comprise typical cosmetics. Typical organic compounds are modified natural oils and fats as well as a variety of petro chemically derived agents.

Inorganic compounds are processed minerals such as iron oxides, talc, and zinc oxide. The oxides of zinc and iron are classified as pigments, i.e. colorants that have no solubility in solvents.

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Natural

Handmade and certified organic products are becoming more mainstream, due to the fact that certain chemicals in some skincare products may be harmful if absorbed through the skin.

Mineral

The term “mineral makeup” applies to a category of face makeup, including foundation, eye shadow, blush, and bronzer, made with loose, dry mineral powders. These powders are often mixed with oil-water emulsions. Lipsticks, liquid foundations, and other liquid cosmetics, as well as compressed makeups such as eye shadow and blush in compacts, are often called mineral makeup if they have the same primary ingredients as dry mineral makeups.

However, liquid makeups must contain preservatives and compressed makeups must contain binders, which dry mineral makeups do not. Mineral makeup usually does not contain synthetic fragrances, preservatives, parabens, mineral oil, and chemical dyes. For this reason, dermatologists may consider mineral makeup to be gentler to the skin than makeup that contains those ingredients. Some minerals are nacreous or pearlescent, giving the skin a shining or sparking appearance. One example is bismuth oxychloride. There are various mineral-based makeup brands, including: Bare Minerals, Tarte, Bobbi Brown, and Stila.

BENEFITS of MINERAL-BASED MAKEUP

Although the chemical constituent of cosmetics sometimes causes concerns, some chemicals are widely seen as beneficial. Titanium dioxide, found in sunscreens, and zinc oxide have anti-inflammatory properties, mineral makeups with those ingredients can have a calming effect on the skin, which is particularly important for those who suffer from inflammatory problems such as rosacea. Zinc oxide is anti-microbial, so mineral makeups can be beneficial for people with acne.

Mineral makeup is noncomedogenic (as long as it does not contain talc) and offers a mild amount of sun protection (because of the titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).
Because they do not contain liquid ingredients, mineral makeups have long shelf-lives.

ACTIVE INGREDIENT for SUNSCREENS

The ozone layer, the natural sunscreen of the earth, is getting thinner.  More harmful rays from sun are passing from this natural barrier. UVA and UVB rays passing through the barrier can cause deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage in the skin which can lead to skin cancer. The most widely accepted solution to overcome this health problem is to use sunscreen products regularly and efficiently. Nowadays, the expectations from sunscreen products have been increasing and new regulations have become effective.

For example, although in the past a high sun protection factor (SPF) was adequate for a sunscreen product to be claimed as a “good” product, today broad spectrum products are becoming a standard. Broad spectrum refers to min. critical wavelength should be greater than 370 nm and UVA/UVB ratio greater than 0.3. To achieve such a broad spectrum chemical and physical active ingredients are utilized in sunscreen formulations. Some of the chemical filters dissociate and/or generate free radicals which can cause skin damage and irritation.

In addition, there is no single chemical UV filter which can provide broad spectrum coverage by itself. There are two physical filters used in sunscreen products approved by Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and EU regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products; Zinc Oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2). Between these two systems, ZnO is the only sunscreen ingredient that extensively covers both UVA and UVB as reported by FDA.

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When ZnO is used as micron-sized particles, it causes undesired whitening effect and unsmooth feeling on the skin. On the other hand, when it is used as nano-sized particles although the whitening effect is mitigated, uncontrolled agglomeration and hence low surface area coverage becomes an issue. Utilization of nano materials raises a great concern whether these nano particles can penetrate through the skin or not. Due to the possible danger of nano materials Non-Nano act groups and products emerged and strict controls have been implemented for nano materials.

Our company developed a patented novel technology called MicNo® particle technology. MicNo® particles are designed platelet shaped micron particles which are composed of nano primary particles. Tailored MicNo® ZnO particles were tested as main ingredient in a sunscreen formulation at an independent laboratory and exhibited great potential as an active ingredient which brings not only broad spectrum, high SPF but also high transparency, smoothness and high surface area coverage per unit mass to the formulation.

COLORFUL COSMETIC ADDITIVES

Colorful cosmetic additives are actively used in many cosmetic products such as color additives, concealers, protector and covering agents. Some of the important properties of the colorful cosmetic additives developed in Entekno are;

  • Friendly products for both environment and human health
  • Higher concealment
  • Softer
  • Easy application
  • Wide color range
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Additive powders not only protect your skin from UV-rays thanks to the active ingredients used in it but also, offer higher concealment and softer touch feeling thanks to the mineral based composition. Additive materials can be produced at a large range of color with inorganic color pigments to special color tones and the user’s request.

Color cosmetic additive materials are presented to the user in two different forms: powder and suspension form.

TERMS of COSMETIC ADDITIVES

 Active Ingredient for SunscreensColorful Cosmetic Additives 
PowderSuspension
Dispersion ConditionMixer – High Shear MixerMixer – High Shear MixerMixer
Dispersion PhaseUsually Water PhaseOil PhaseOil Phase
Mixing TimeUntil Dispersed HomogeneouslyUntil Homogeneous Color DistributionUntil Homogeneous Color Distribution
Content in MixingMaximum 25%Varies According to the Desired Color TonesVaries According to the Desired Color Tones
Special Precautions During UseRecommended to use mask during usageRecommended to use mask during usage-

COSMETIC REGULATIONS and CONTROL PARAMETERS

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Our cosmetic additive materials are passed through a chemical purity analysis at each production stage. Cosmetic ingredients which are not allowed to be used in cosmetic products are always checked at every stage of production, beginning from raw material control to the final product control.

Although paraben, oxybenzone and avobenzone chemicals are well known to be banned chemicals in cosmetic products, much more harmful chemicals such as lead, cadmium, arsenic and mercury that affects directly the human nervous system are also needed to be checked all through the production stages.

Our cosmetic additives do not contain any banned chemical and the heavy metal content in our products is well below the limits defined by cosmetic regulations.

Maximum level of heavy metals in additives

Components Maximum Level  
Lead 10 ppm
Arsenic 3 ppm
Cadmium 3 ppm
Mercury 1 ppm
Antimony 5 ppm
Test Methods
Purity Analysis

X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy (XRF)

Atomic Adsorption Spectroscopy (AAS)
Inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectroscopy

Inductively Coupled plasma Atomic Emission Spectroscopy (ICP-OES)

Other Analysis Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy (UV-Vis)

Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR)

X-Ray Powder Diffraction (XRD)